Hi guys! Welcome to my blog! In this post, I will be giving you step by step instructions on how I built my console table! That way, by the end of this post, you’ll be able to build your own!
I’ve wanted a console table for a long time, but I wasn’t finding one that I liked and I didn’t want to spend an arm and a leg on something I didn’t like, so I decided to make my own! I originally found this plan on Ana White’s blog, but I modified the table so it would fit where I wanted it to go in my house. You can see the original plans by clicking here.
Wood Shopping List:
- (6) – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
- (3) – 2×4 @ 8 feet long
- (1) – 2×8 @ 12 feet long
- (2) – 2×10 @ 8 feet long
Wood Cut List:
- (6) – 2×4 @ 28 1/2” (Frame Legs)
- (5) – 2×4 @ 9 1/4″ (Shelf Trim)
- (12) – 2×2 @ 27” (Frame Support)
- (2) – 2×2 @ 9 1/4” (Middle Shelf Trim)
- (2) – 2×10 @ 57” (Middle Shelves)
- (2) – 2×8 @ 68” (Top Shelves)
- (2) – 2×2 @ 22 1/2” (X Angles)
- Long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square
- (4) – 2×2 @ 11 1/4” (X Angles)
- Long point to short point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
Step 1: Build 2 Frames
Once you have all of your pieces cut, it’s time to build the frame. You’ll want to drill pocket holes on both ends of the 2×2’s. I used the Kreg pocket hole jig, which I found on Amazon. The picture below shows you where your pocket holes should be. Drill all of the pocket holes on one side of the frame, as the other side will be the “face”. You will have to identical frames like the one pictured below on the right.
(You may want to leave a little more room than 3” from the bottom if you have a robotic vaccum like a Roomba. I didn’t think about that prior to construction and my Roomba isn’t able to go underneath the table).
Step 2: Place the Middle and Bottom Shelves
Decide which side of the shelf you want facing upwards. Drill pocket holes for 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws on both the left and right bottom side of the shelf, along the outer edges. You’ll do this with both the middle and bottom shelves. This makes construction much easier. I also drilled pocket holes on the top of the frame, so I’d be able to attach the top shelves. You can see an example in the picture below where the blue dots are.
I decided to go ahead and stain the boards that were constructed at this point, because it can be difficult to stain certain areas once it’s fully assembled. Take the second frame and place it on top of the shelves. Attach the frame using the pocket holes you previously drilled.
I used wood glue on the ends of the trim and drilled pocket holes for a 3/4” pocket hole screw to attach the trim to the frame. The middle trim piece is a 2×2 and it needs to be placed with the skinny side facing upwards. This allows room for the X angles. The 5 2×4’s that you cut at 9 1/4” need to be placed on both sides of the bottom and top of the frame, as well as one more that joins the middle together at the top. The bottom and top trim pieces need to be placed with the widest part of the board facing upwards.
Step 3: Cut the X Angles
Fair warning, this next part is tricky. The angles need to be cut at 60 degrees. Most miter saws and even table saws only cut up to a 45 degrees angle. I found a great video that explains how to cut a 60 degree angle while using a saw that only goes up to 45 degrees. When you cut your angles, remember that both ends need to be opposite of each other. I used wood glue to hold the boards in place.
One 2×2 needs to be 22 1/2″, and you’ll want to measure from long point to short point and both ends need to be cut at a 60 degree angle.
The other 2×2 needs to be cut at 11 1/4″ with one end cut at 60 degrees and the other side cut at 30 degrees.